&Quot;Smells like filet mignon when it hits the grill," says Josie. And I couldn’t agree more. Beef with a touch of char, cumin, black pepper, cassis and blackcurrant on the nose. Full and forward in the mouth, with a playful jamminess at midpalate that’s made to show, here and there, some serious aspects of earth and an olivey savoriness. Good length, with grainy tannins and decent acidity. A nice buy in the $14 range, from a reliable producer.