Does Didier Dagueneau, a ‘;disciple of biodynamism’;, make the best Sauvignon Blanc (SB) in the world? When I first tasted his 2001 Silex, I knew it was the best SB I had ever tried by a good margin. Although young, it made an impression on me and was the start of a tasting that I attended. Although he sometimes makes four cuvees in a year, this is one of the more approachable ones. The label is pretty outrageous, especially for a French wine, with a detailed print of a hedonistic fox enjoying some of life’;s comforts.

Pale yellow, the nose showed a focused beam of tight citrus and minerals. Slightly bitter lemon sherbet tickled my tongue and the long mineral laden length showed pleasing acidity. Although young, I could quite happily have drunk another glass or two.